Pork belly in Richmond Hill 肉夾包

We're on a roll here!  After Akujiki took us from 18th century Yangzhou, China via his Le Creuset pork belly in California to noodle shop in a Shanghai alley, I got into a frenzy over the mere talk of pork belly.  We had lunch at Delicious 好清香, a Fukien style restaurant in Richmond Hill, just north of Toronto.  It is usually my destination for Hainan chicken.  But as we were finishing, I noticed the table beside us packing up one of the signature dishes of chef Patrick Chuang - braised pork trotters 红烧元蹄.   It was too late to order one to take home for dinner - Patrick said it would take an hour to make another one but he offered me his own  肉夾包 (Pork belly bun) which would only take a few minutes.   What a treat it was!

The melt in your mouth pork belly was topped with orange day lily and cilantro in between a mildly sweet bun.  What a wonderful contrast in textures and taste!  It's authentic Fukienese flavour - and you don't have to go all the way to downtown Toronto to Momofuku (or pay the much steeper price) to taste the now trendy pork belly bun.

After lunch, I found an unbelievably lean piece of pork belly at the butcher's.  Guess what's for dinner tonight!  I plan to try Akijiki's Le Creuset pork belly without the Le Creuset pot.  Sacrilegious, I know, but worth a try...

Addendum

Pork belly made with Circulon pot - not having tasted the one made in the Le Creuset, can't really compare.  But I think next time, I'll make this with the fermented red bean paste my mom used to braise pork with.  She would brown the pork (trotter or belly) with chopped onion, add the red fermented bean paste with sugar, then braise it on the stove on low heat.  This would result in a naturally reduced sauce at the end of the 2 hour cooking.  In the dutch oven, there is very little liquid reduction.  So what do you do with the sauce?!  I'm sure Akijiki would have a creative response.

Pork Belly in Shanghai 上海辣肉絲麵館的醬汁大肉

I read online a very well written Chinese article -- [陋巷美食], which meant “Gourmet Food in an Alley” -- about a noodle shop in Shanghai and its signature pork belly.  The author’s description of the pork belly was a killer: “that piece of layered fat and lean meat was truly delicious; the fat soft but not greasy, the meat tender and not dried out; it melts in your mouth, filling it with a sweet fragrant soya flavor. 那肉真是好吃，肥瘦相間，柔而不膩，酥糯而不粉粑，帶點鮮甜的醬香，入口即化。”  I urged a friend living in that city to check it out..  (To read the article [陋巷美食] by 鄭培凱, follow this link: http://barry1.cityu.edu.hk/han3/7/6/9/0/0/0/1/www.cciv.cityu.edu.hk/website/?redirect=/cheng_literature/cn/A155.php.)

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Since the article mentioned only the district where the shop was located (老西門) and some description of it, but not the name or address, it took some detective work on the internet to identify the place as the “Spicy Hot Shred Pork Noodle Shop辣肉絲麵館” (what a generic name).  My friend went with his wife, ate there and reported back with some photos. 

The noodle place was on a narrow one-way street in an old Shanghai neighborhood.   Its size was about that of a parking space for a single automobile, with stoves on one side and just enough room for kitchen work.  Customers ate outside at a few tables on the sidewalk.  

My friends arrived before the lunch crowd.  The shop owner immediately recognized them as visitors and said that he would decide for them what to eat – one bowl of yellow crocker noodle soup (黄魚麵), one bowl of pork liver noodle (猪肝麵) and an order of the signature pork belly in brown sauce (醬汁大肉). 

Yellow crocker was a favorite fish in the Shanghai area.  With demand outstripping supply, large yellow crocker became scarce and expensive.  This shop stir fried lightly battered filets of fresh small crockers for the noodle soup.  It was so good that my friend’s wife finished the whole bowl by herself.  The pork liver noodle was good too.  Pork liver was sliced not too thick, and stir fried with diced bamboo shoot.  The white noodle had a slightly chewy texture as good noodle should.

The star of the meal was the pork belly.  The large piece draped across a medium sized plate.  The sauce was slightly sweet which was typical of Shanghaiese cooking.  The belly was cooked perfectly -- the fat just melted in the mouth without feeling greasy; the lean meat of the belly absorbed the fat during the cooking, and was tender and flavorful.   My friends could not stop eating until the whole piece was gone.  That was pretty amazing for two people who usually watched their diet. 

It was a big lunch.  My friends finished all three dishes.  The delicious meal came to RMB$64, which was about US$10.  They were so happy with the food that they went back for a reprise.  On their second visit, they paced themselves and packed most of the pork belly home.

Yellow crocker noodle 黄魚麵

Pork liver noodle 猪肝麵

Pork belly 醬汁大肉

Noodle shop 辣肉絲麵館

       

    

Bamboo Shoot and Fatty Pork

I was browsing a Chinese painting treatise by Jin Noon (金農, 1687-1763 A.D.), a member of the famed “Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou” (揚州八怪), and came across this picture of a bamboo shoot painting.  What caught my eyes was not the painted object but Jin’s unique style of calligraphy (every paint stroke had a uniform width, with points at the beginning and end) and the inscribed poem about “bamboo shoots sprouted all over the hills the morning after the first Spring thunder, and the artist bought a bundle to ask an old monk to braise them with fatty pork for him.” 

Mr. Jin used bamboo shoots that were dug up that morning because those were most tender and delicate.  Japanese prize them too, calling them asahori takenoko (朝掘筍), and use them for special dishes.  Bamboo shoots and fatty pork pair well.  To Chinese, fatty pork (花豬肉) usually means pork belly.  To Japanese, it is referred to as ton-toro, or pig jowl.  

It may sound strange that Mr. Jin asked a monk to cook his bamboo shoot and fatty pork.  Legend says that an old monk in a famous temple near his home was known for the dish and he would cook it only for special people such as Mr. Jin the artist.  

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I could not find fresh bamboo shoots in the market (it was not in season), but that did not stop me from braising pork belly.  I bought a nice piece that was tied up into a roll, and braised it in a Le Creuset enameled cast iron pot.  

Here's my cooking method: 

(1)    I prepare the braising liquid with an equal amount of Japanese soy sauce and junmai sake (純米酒, the kind not brewed with distilled alcohol).  I heat it up and dissolve some rock sugar in it.  I do not use mirin (味醂) because I cannot find naturally fermented hon-mirin; otherwise I would.  (Note: the key is to use high quality naturally fermented soy sauce that is rich and flavorful instead of salty.) 

(2)    Bring the braising liquid in the Le Creuset pot to a boil on the stove.  Add the pork belly roll and cover the pot.  There should be enough liquid to cover half way up the roll.  Add hot water if necessary. 

(3)    Put it in a convection oven at low heat (300°F) for 30 minutes.  Check the color of the rind.  It should have acquired a nice reddish brown color.  Turn the roll over.  Braise it a bit longer for the rind of the other side to pick up color.  The pork belly will be tender and the rind soft. 

(4)    For crispy skin, broil it skin side up.

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Bamboo shoot is also good by itself.  Japanese calls it takenoko (竹の子), the young of bamboo.  When it is in season, from winter to spring depending on location, people dig up young bamboo shoots that are still below the ground surface and ship them to markets and restaurants.  Usually they are boiled with rice bran (komenuka) to get rid of their bitterness.  But asahori takenoko (朝掘筍) from premier growing areas can be served raw as takenoko sashimi, and the thin slices are tender, crispy and sweet.  Other Japanese ways to eat takenoko include tempura and takenoko gohan (seasoned bamboo shoot rice). 

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Chinese also harvests bamboo shoots in winter and spring.  

The most memorable Chinese bamboo shoot dish I have eaten was an old-fashioned 炒雙冬 – a stir fry of winter bamboo shoots and Chinese black mushrooms in a Shanghai-style rich brown sauce.  Only the tips of the bamboo shoot were used, and they were cut into thin sections about two inches long.  Biting into these tender and crunchy pieces, my taste buds experienced the rich sauce at first.  After the sauce was gone, delicate flavor of bamboo shoot filled my mouth.  If I closed my eyes, I could visualize being alone in a spring bamboo grove.  The almost Zen experience was counter-balanced by the earthy texture and flavor of meaty black mushrooms between pieces of bamboo shoot.  When a vegetable dish is so well made, who needs fatty pork to go with it?

Peruvian Food - Causas, Cuy, Rocoto relleno, Ponderaciones

I cannot complete my Peruvian gastronomic adventure without showing you these very Peruvian dishes.  The causa, seen below in two different guises but recognizably the same ingredients - the yellow layers of mashed potatoes with lemon sauce stuffed with fish or chicken salad.  It's a delicious first course, especially combined with avocado in some instances.  Lots of recipes on the web, check out this one for the causa rellena. 

Causa rellena - layered potato and tuna salad (from the Inka Grill in Cusco) 

 

Rocoto relleno or "fire in your mouth" - stuffed chilli peppers, a traditional Andean dish from Arequipa.  I have lifted the cheese to show the stuffing,  a combination of beef and vegetables

Rocoto relleno

Cuy - guinea pig roasted

With apologies to my pet-loving friends and family, I have to at least briefly mention and show a small photo of the "cuy" (guinea pig), a Peruvian delicacy.  During pre-Columbian Incan times, it was food only for the nobility.  It is now raised commercially and is considered a staple of Andean cuisine.    We tried this roasted version in a restaurant near the Plaza de Armas in Cusco.  I would say the taste was "interesting", a little gamey, definitely would need lots of herbs in the cooking process.  Texture was very much like pork, but a bit more chewy.  There was not a lot of meat but enough for two as you get tired of the rather intense flavour after a few pieces.   Worth a try.

On to something tamer - the ponderaciones is a Peruvian pastry - sounded exotic and looked good, but not the best dessert we've tasted.

Ponderaciones

This pear poached in red wine, however, was outstanding - the best dessert on the trip (also at the Inka Grill)

Finally, we can't leave Peru without tasting its famous chocolate!  We got this chocolate basket by fluke.  I was unable to get room service at the Lima Sheraton to understand my Spanglish request for a kettle. After 4 or 5 phone calls, I finally got one but it didn't work.  I went and talked to Guest Services.  They were apologetic and the same guy who brought me the kettle brought me this spectacle on a tray. The chocolate was deep, dark and intense!  What luck!

This wraps up my Peruvian food adventure.  It has been quite a trip!  To see the actual travel, please visit http://www.travelswithrarecat.blogspot.ca.   Thanks for coming along.