the Walrus and the Carpenter: an Oyster Bar & More

In his book Through the Looking Glass, Lewis Carroll told the story of the Walrus and the Carpenter.  “O Oysters, come and walk with us!” the Walrus said.  And they were followed by four young oysters, and four other, and yet another, and more, and more, and more.  All was well until the Walrus proclaimed that

                “Now if you are ready, Oysters dear,

     We can begin to feed.”

…..

“I weep for you,” the Walrus said:

     “I deeply sympathize.”

With sobs and tears he sorted out

     Those of the largest size,

Holding his pocket-handkerchief

     Before his streaming eyes.

 “O Oysters,” said the Carpenter,

     “You've had a pleasant run!

Shall we be trotting home again?”

     But answer came there none —

And this was scarcely odd, because

     They'd eaten every one.

So it is most appropriate that one of the best oyster bar calls itself by that name, the Walrus & the Carpenter.

For the first timers, W&C can be hard to find.  It is hidden in the back of a renovated century old brick building in an industrial area that is under redevelopment. The front of the building is occupied by a different restaurant and a bike shop cum café, both without visible signs.  Painted on the wall above them are faded letterings “KOLSTRAND MFG CO.” and “MARINE HARDWARE”.  Only when one looks carefully would one see the small white cloud-shaped sign over a glass building door by the bike shop.  Walk past the door, down a long corridor to the metal wall sculptures at the end, turn left, and there it is.

Look up, there's the sign

The metal wall sculpture by the door

It is understandable why some people mistake W&C for a restaurant.  Its small menu offers small plates of seafood, meat, soup, salad, cheese and dessert besides raw oysters.  But the owner-chef insists that it is a bar and as such, W&C does not accept reservation.  

Arufa and M arrived before the opening time (4 pm) and there was already a long line at the door.  They were pleased to get a table on the back porch.  It was a mild-weather sunny afternoon, perfect for al fresco snacks and drinks.  They ordered four kinds of raw local oysters, deep fried oysters with cilantro aioli, cured halibut, steak tartare, lardo, vodka on rocks and Pouilly Fume.  

The raw oysters were impeccable.  The ones from Samish Bay were particularly sweet and at the same time briny as the ocean.  The batter of the deep fried oysters had just the right amount of corn meal to make it crunchy but not hard; the oysters within were plump, creamy and flavorful.

Fried oysters, cilantro aioli

The steak tartare was traditional.  The chopped meat patty looked pretty with an egg yolk on top, but it became soggy after the two were mixed.  It was also a bit salty because of the salt crystals on the yolk.  

Steak tartare

The lardo was not what they expected.  Instead of pure solid fat, the thin ribbons were more like Italian smoked pancetta.  Pistachios and pickled blueberries provided a nice visual impact but not much more.

Lardo and garnishes

Arufa and M thoroughly enjoyed the food and drinks even if the meat plates were not as successful as the oysters and fish.  W&C’s casual space was inviting.  Its loud and festive music befits a bar.  They would like to stay longer but W&C was hardly a place for lingering when tables around them turned quickly and the crowd at the door growing in size.  They just had to plan for another visit to eat through the W&C menu.