Seattle

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

There Are Very Few Restaurants Like Canlis Anymore

There are very few restaurants like Canlis anymore.  It is old school in every way from the Mid-20^thCentury Modern architecture to the formal service to the food and drink menu.  Everything comes together beautifully to give its diners a fine dining experience from a bygone era.

Canlis, now in the hands of the third generation, was opened in 1950 as a high end seafood and charbroiled steak house with a staff of Japanese ladies in kimonos and fresh orchids flown in daily from Hawaii.  Since then, its interior has been renovated three times.  These days the inside is cedar, stone and glass, in complete harmony with the time-honored architecture.  Spacious tables with perfectly smooth and crisp white tablecloths are kept reasonably apart for privacy (the waiters steam iron the tablecloths after they lay them on the tables).  The walls of slanted windows offer a grand view of the lake below and the city skyline in the far.  ‘Updated retro’ food -- classic dishes with current cooking techniques and presentation styles -- has replaced steaks long ago.

Arufa & M arrived early for their 6:45 reservation.  They were shown to the bar, and soon informed by a maitre’d that their table would be available on time.  They were amused as there were a couple of open tables nearby.  At 6:45, they were seated at one of them.  Why the wait, they wondered; could that be a way for Canlis to manage the kitchen workflow?

Their dinner began with a trio of amuse-bouche – a croquette encasing a soft egg yolk, a cornet of salmon foam and wasabi tobiko, and a tiny tart topped with a bit of morel – followed by their first course of foie gras and steak tartare.  The foie gras was plated with blanched celery and leaves, tiny pickled red onion rings, cherry puree and clear Sauternes gel.  On top of the torchon were candied pistachios and celery powder that melted in the mouth.  The accompaniment of a thick slice of cocoa brioche toast was delicious but very crumbly, making it a mess to eat.

Foie gras

The steak tartare was made with raw local Wagyu tenderloin in the original Canlis’ recipe.  Instead of the typical meat patty, the chopped meat was formed into two ‘quenelles’ and decorated with edible flowers. Interestingly, the meat was not mixed with egg or strong seasoning.  Instead, it had a refreshingly clean, mild flavor.

Steak tartare

The second courses were the ‘Peter Canlis Prawns’ and pan seared halibut.  Five large prawns, sautéed in dry vermouth, garlic and lime, were perfectly cooked.  They looked plain with just a pale-colored sauce drizzled over them, but their taste had made up for the lack of decoration. 

"Peter Canlis' prawns

The halibut was served with cauliflower, quinoa and taggiasca olives.

Halibut

One of the meat courses was a roasted dry aged Muscovy duck.  The whole duck (for two) was presented to the table before craving in the kitchen.  The breast was halved, sliced and plated with rillettes of leg meat, orange marmalade, green fennel puree and pearl onion brulee.  The duck was cooked well to near perfection.  There was very little fat under the crispy skin, and the medium rare meat was tender.     

The duck on a tray

The duck on a plate

Another meat course was two grilled lamb chops with braised lamb croquette, fried leeks and piquillo pepper marmalade.

Lamb chops

Both Arufa & M had Grand Marnier soufflé with orange zest and crème Anglaise for dessert.  Afterwards, their waiter brought them two kinds of macaroons with coffee, and each a parting gift of chocolate bar in a box.      

Grand Marnier souffle, creme Anglaise

Arufa and M were very satisfied with their dinner.  Their concern that the restaurant might be riding on its past glory was unfounded.  The professional and nonintrusive service at Canlis was almost impeccable. There were a couple of minor hiccups that were quickly rectified.  They were also impressed by the valet system (there is no self parking).  The friendly valets did not hand them a claim ticket, and yet their car was waiting outside the door for them before they walked out of the door.

Canlis prides itself as a swanky restaurant.  It reminds its guests during reservation that there is a dress code, meaning no casual attires and a jacket for men.  But that is more a request than a requirement, as the restaurant recognizes that nowadays many people do not care to dress appropriately for an elegant meal.  Sadly time has changed, even for an institution like Canlis. 

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

the Walrus and the Carpenter: an Oyster Bar & More

In his book Through the Looking Glass, Lewis Carroll told the story of the Walrus and the Carpenter.  “O Oysters, come and walk with us!” the Walrus said.  And they were followed by four young oysters, and four other, and yet another, and more, and more, and more.  All was well until the Walrus proclaimed that

                “Now if you are ready, Oysters dear,

     We can begin to feed.”

…..

“I weep for you,” the Walrus said:

     “I deeply sympathize.”

With sobs and tears he sorted out

     Those of the largest size,

Holding his pocket-handkerchief

     Before his streaming eyes.

 “O Oysters,” said the Carpenter,

     “You've had a pleasant run!

Shall we be trotting home again?”

     But answer came there none —

And this was scarcely odd, because

     They'd eaten every one.

So it is most appropriate that one of the best oyster bar calls itself by that name, the Walrus & the Carpenter.

For the first timers, W&C can be hard to find.  It is hidden in the back of a renovated century old brick building in an industrial area that is under redevelopment. The front of the building is occupied by a different restaurant and a bike shop cum café, both without visible signs.  Painted on the wall above them are faded letterings “KOLSTRAND MFG CO.” and “MARINE HARDWARE”.  Only when one looks carefully would one see the small white cloud-shaped sign over a glass building door by the bike shop.  Walk past the door, down a long corridor to the metal wall sculptures at the end, turn left, and there it is.

Look up, there's the sign

The metal wall sculpture by the door

It is understandable why some people mistake W&C for a restaurant.  Its small menu offers small plates of seafood, meat, soup, salad, cheese and dessert besides raw oysters.  But the owner-chef insists that it is a bar and as such, W&C does not accept reservation.  

Arufa and M arrived before the opening time (4 pm) and there was already a long line at the door.  They were pleased to get a table on the back porch.  It was a mild-weather sunny afternoon, perfect for al frescosnacks and drinks.  They ordered four kinds of raw local oysters, deep fried oysters with cilantro aioli, cured halibut, steak tartare, lardo, vodka on rocks and Pouilly Fume.  

The raw oysters were impeccable.  The ones from Samish Bay were particularly sweet and at the same time briny as the ocean.  The batter of the deep fried oysters had just the right amount of corn meal to make it crunchy but not hard; the oysters within were plump, creamy and flavorful.

Fried oysters, cilantro aioli

The steak tartare was traditional.  The chopped meat patty looked pretty with an egg yolk on top, but it became soggy after the two were mixed.  It was also a bit salty because of the salt crystals on the yolk.  

Steak tartare

The lardo was not what they expected.  Instead of pure solid fat, the thin ribbons were more like Italian smoked pancetta.  Pistachios and pickled blueberries provided a nice visual impact but not much more.

Lardo and garnishes

Arufa and M thoroughly enjoyed the food and drinks even if the meat plates were not as successful as the oysters and fish.  W&C’s casual space was inviting.  Its loud and festive music befits a bar.  They would like to stay longer but W&C was hardly a place for lingering when tables around them turned quickly and the crowd at the door growing in size.  They just had to plan for another visit to eat through the W&C menu.

Labels: bistro, brunch, charcuterie, clafoutis, Le Pichet, quichePosted by Akujiki at 23:24 No comments: 

Labels: oyster bar, the Walrus and the CarpenterFriday, 16 August 2013