WEDNESDAY, 20 FEBRUARY 2013
Bresse Hen at Le Bristol
My heart pounded with excitement when a waiter walked toward our table carrying in his hands a balloon in a copper pan. But my excitement was dashed quickly. He walked past us to the two men at the tablenext to ours. They had ordered the same meat course – a young Bresse hen cooked in a pig’s bladder.
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| Poularde de Bresse cuite en vessie (Le Bristol) |
We had been in the restaurant for an hour and half and had thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Each of us hada glass from the Champagne cart for aperitif, and ate through two amuse-bouches and an entrée. The wine (a 2000 Corton Charlemagne from Antonin Guyon) and the incredibly tasty bread and butter would sustain us while we waited for our hen.
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First amuse-bouche – foie gras custard with green herb gelee (right),
white fish in foam (center), oyster cucumber gelatin ball (left)
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Second amuse-bouche – seafood mousse
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Monsieur A’s entrée: Encornet et caviar imperial (stuffed squid with caviar)
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Madame A’s entrée: Noix de coquilles (scallops)
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Our waiter presented the copper pan to us before proceeding with the tableside service. He cut open the balloon of a pig’s bladder and extracted from it a whole young Bresse hen. He carved the bird and served the skinless half breasts with crayfish, black truffle, chanterelle, green asparagus and a cream sauce ofvin jaune, foie gras and hen liver. The tender and flavourful breast meat was enhanced by the traditional rich sauce.
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| Craving the Bresse hen tableside |
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Poularde de Bresse, supreme au vin jaune, royale d’abats,
ecrevisses, girolle, asperges vertes et truffe noire
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The rest of the hen was taken back to the kitchen for the second part of the dish – a delicious bouillon de poule enriched with foie gras and truffle, and adorned with juliennes of thigh meat. It was velvety with an intense aroma and flavor. Given its richness, the small portion size was perfect.
We were too full for the glorious cheese cart. Nevertheless Madame A ordered a Campari and grapefruit sorbet. The kitchen sent out a complimentary sorbet for me so that Madame did not have to eat alone. We ended the lunch with a soothing tisane and ignored the petits fours that came with the tea service.
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Dessert: Pamplemousse et Campari en sorbet (Campari and grapefruit sorbet)
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Our three-course lunch lasted over three and half hours. It was a wonderful meal. We loved every minute of it, having a great time with the excellent food and the flawless professional service. The luxuriouswinter dinner room with 18th century wood panels, mirrors, tapestries, paintings and Baccarat chandeliers was beautiful. It was also a good place for people watching but not eavesdropping as the tables were set far apart.
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| The Winter Dining Room (Le Bristol) |
In summer, the restaurant moves to another dining room that overlooks the largest hotel garden in Paris. As far as I know, it is the only Parisian restaurant that changes its venue with seasons.
Restaurant: Hotel Le Bristol, Paris
Chef: Eric Frechon
MONDAY, 27 JUNE 2011
Serious Dining
Thai food in Paris??! The name of the restaurant is Gastronomie Thailandaise, which gives fair indication of what to expect. It was a nice surprise for us, certainly fancier than any Thai restaurant we have encountered in Toronto. But then again, it's Paris.
Monday in Paris, meant that many restaurants were closed. We were lucky our friend referred us to L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, just north of the Georges Pompidou Centre.
The chilled asparagus entree, served with a warm vinaigrette, was refreshing with the contrast in textures and temperature. The roast duck breast, served in 3 big chunks instead of slices, meant the skin remained crispy, pink and juicy inside - it was the best duck we have tasted anywhere. The other interesting element was the "aligot" it came with - mashed potatoes made with cheese - a traditional dish from the province of Auvergne. The waiter put up a performance, pulling the mixture out of the heated pan with a spoon so that it is in strands.
We realized after we left Paris, that the 3 course "Formule" menu turned out to be the best deal ever, compared to restaurants in Provence.
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| Chicken wrapped in palm leaves |
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| Soft-shell crab |
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| Prawns in crepe pouch |
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| Curried chicken steeped in coconut |
Monday in Paris, meant that many restaurants were closed. We were lucky our friend referred us to L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, just north of the Georges Pompidou Centre.
The chilled asparagus entree, served with a warm vinaigrette, was refreshing with the contrast in textures and temperature. The roast duck breast, served in 3 big chunks instead of slices, meant the skin remained crispy, pink and juicy inside - it was the best duck we have tasted anywhere. The other interesting element was the "aligot" it came with - mashed potatoes made with cheese - a traditional dish from the province of Auvergne. The waiter put up a performance, pulling the mixture out of the heated pan with a spoon so that it is in strands.
