Thursday 12 July 2018

The City Merchant in the Merchant City

What can be a better combination - historic ambiance with fresh seafood and traditional fare done in a contemporary fashion! We had a great dinner at the City Merchant, a restaurant in the midst of Merchant City in downtown Glasgow.  The place was packed when our group of four arrived.  We didn't have a reservation but was told we could wait half an hour for a table for four to be freed up.  But if we split up, there were two tables for two waiting - so we did.


We had their homemade squash soup, the grilled lemon sole and beef medallions with haggis. Of course I have to try haggis while I'm in Scotland. It was just a small piece but just enough to give me a taste - interesting flavour!  Both dishes were done to perfection.  Like everywhere else in Glasgow, the staff were friendly and chatty. It is a welcoming place serving delicious food!
 
Grilled whole lemon sole with baby shrimp and caper butter
Beef medallions served with haggis and mushrooms

We enjoyed the stained glass around us, including the door to the kitchen.




















Tuesday 10 July 2018

Eating in Iceland

We spent 11 days travelling in Iceland with a tour group in June, 2018. We have already heard from other travellers how expensive food is in Iceland so was mentally prepared for the prices on menus.  Before the tour, we spent a day in Reykjavik and tried lunch and dinner at restaurants. We were surprised at how good the food was, and the prices, while steep, were not outrageous - not much more than what we would have paid at a good downtown restaurant in any North American city.  And because it was good quality, it was worth the price, affordability aside.  

We had an excellent first meal at the Iceland Fish and Chips Restaurant which has a blackboard menu with specials of the day. We get our choice of fish for various prices averaging around 2000 kronas ($20 USD).  A special included a salad and chips.  The cod was fresh and lightly battered - perfectly done. Our bill for two came to around 4600 ISK.


Dinner was at Þrir Frakkar,  run by chef Úlfar Eysteinsson in a residential area near the downtown core, in fact right next to the airbnb apartment we stayed in. The restaurant has excellent reviews and it was a good thing we made a reservation for dinner - the place was packed. The food was excellent! We tried the whale breast, the grilled cod, arctic char and our friends tried the Icelandic specialty hashed fish with black bread.  All the dishes were well-prepared, tasty and fresh. Service was super-friendly.  It was an excellent start to our icelandic food experience.  (Entrees averaged around 4500 - 5500 ISK, meat is more expensive than fish).  We got a discount because we were "neighbours" ;-).

Whale breast - delicious (tastes like roast beef)

Arctic char

Grilled cod

Hashed fish with black bread - Icelandic specialty

All the breakfasts and dinners were included in our tour but we didn't expect much more than cafeteria style buffets at the hotels. It was a pleasant surprise to find the food at our first stop at the Hotel Bifrost  to be an exceptionally serviced buffet with quality smoked and cured salmon as appetizers and perfectly cooked and trimmed salmon and cod for hot dishes.  It turned out to be one of the best meals we have had on the trip.  The rest of the dinners were all served - there were some slight variations in quality but overall the standard was quite high.  We had a great lamb fillet dinner at the Hotel Laugar, where again we saw the wait staff being carefully trained by the executive chef.

A most memorable lunch was at the Narfeyrarstofa restaurant in the seaside town of Stikkisholmur where we had one of the best seafood chowder ever - chock full of fish and two huge scallops that were tasty as ever.  The soup was around 2000 ISK, not bad considering the quality.  We also had terrific appetizers while we were on the boat cruise to see birds - fresh scallops and sea urchins straight out of the shell from the sea.


Scallop just out of the sea (so delicious!)

Scallop roe (yummy!)
Sea urchin (these would have tasted better if rinsed in fresh water)

We had other lunches while on the road, sandwiches were mostly around 1000 ISK; we even had smoked salmon panini in Husavik and that was only 750 ISK, not likely to find this price in Toronto even.  But then it's Iceland and fish is their specialty.  

When we returned to Reykjavik, we had dinners with the group at the Sky Restaurant at the CenterHotel and the Kolabrautin Restaurant at the Harpa Concert hall.  Both excellent dinners - the former memorable for its scallops appetizer and the latter for its tender roast beef.  I think Iceland is definitely the place for scallops!


Six big delicious scallops in this appetizer at the Sky Restaurant

Roast beef medallions at the Kolabrautin Restaurant



Overall, we had a wonderful food experience in Iceland - highly recommended, but be ready to pay!