Cambodian BBQ

The first order of business upon arrival in Siem Reap was to check out the food.  We visited the "night" market in the afternoon and checked out the restaurants on the famous "Pub street".  I've heard about the Cambodian barbeque but it was hard to imagine eating that in the heat.  But when we went back in the evening, when it was cooler, it seemed doable.  The place was packed but it was quite big and we found a table.  

There were two BBQ menus, one with seven kinds of meat and the other with twelve.  We figured seven was all we could manage - chicken, beef, pork, espanado (fish), shrimp, squid AND crocodile!  The crocodile tasted a bit like chewy chicken - it's quite good.

Veggies and noodles came with the meat - we asked for and got extra greens.  The meat was placed on a domed grill - the little fat there was dripped through the grill while the meat sauce dripped into the soup, we got the tastiest free soup ever - what a deal!  Most of the meats were lightly marinated but all tasted great.  And since one of us had an upset stomach just before the trip - this is clearly the safest option...



Each of the meats was labelled!

 

Veggies, rice and noodles came with the meat.

The square piece at the top of the domed grill was a piece of pork fat that they used to grease the grill - clever!  and yet while the juice from the meat dripped into the soup, there was no grease in the soup.

Chinese New Year dish 蠔士髮菜 or 好事發財

The signature Chinese New Year dish is named after two of its ingredients: oysters and dried seaweed,  in Chinese 蠔士髮菜 (pronounced "ho see fat choi") and in fact, it's just the sound of the dish that made it "lucky" for Chinese New Year, where a good name is everything.  The oyster and sea weed sounds like "good things and prosperity" 好事發財 ("ho see fat choi") making it the key dish in any Chinese New Year dinner (for the Cantonese speaking at least).

Traditionally at my home, my mom would make this dish for Chinese New Year's eve, serve half of it and have the other half for the second day of the new year, when we have the first real dinner to mark the beginning of the year.  While the two key ingredients gave the dish its name, it is in fact made with quite a few more things, all of which have their own significance.  I emphasized "at my home" because every family has its own interpretation of tradition and I'm sure if we were to ask 10 Chinese families what they put in their Chinese New Year dish, you'll get 10 different answers.

Dried oysters (as opposed to fresh) are the best for this dish.  These need to be soaked for a few hours or overnight in just enough water to cover.  The seaweed is not just any seaweed.   It has to be "fat choi".   See picture below - and for origin, check out this wikipedia article, it may come up in Chinese, just click translate.  It is black and looks like human hair, hence its name translates as "hair veggie".  It is quite expensive and there are fakes around.  I've never bought it in Toronto.  The supply I had was given to me more than 10 years ago.  It's dried, it will last forever in the fridge but it won't last long on the table.  Alas, this is the last of my supply - I will have to start looking for it, maybe in Hong Kong...

Dried seaweed or "fat choi"

dried oysters

Other ingredients:  quail's eggs (birth, new life), dried mushrooms, bamboo shoots (spring, new life), lotus root (for meeting the right companion), dried scallops, enoki, dried bean curd can all be included.
Sometimes pig's tongue is also added for more luck (tongue in Chinese is "lei", sounds like luck).

Quail's eggs

dried mushrooms

Lotus root, bamboo shoot

Enoki mushrooms

All ingredients are stir fried in a bit of oil and ginger, garlic, starting with the oysters and mushrooms. Add some stock and simmer for a few minutes before adding the other ingredients, leaving the seaweed last because they soak up the sauce.  I usually leave them in one lump as they tend to split up otherwise and would be hard to find.  The boiled and peeled quail's eggs are best browned in a separate pan so they don't break up as easily.   Add these after everything else is cooked.

發財好事

Is the ambiance worth paying for?

One of the most expensive Chinese restaurants in Toronto is Lai Wah Heen (麗華軒) - with rave reviews in Gourmet and the New York Times.  It has been around for many years but we have never been - possibly because it's downtown, also because someone had said eating there was like eating money and we didn't find eating money particularly appealing.  Last week, we ventured in as part of a birthday celebration - a good excuse, especially when someone else was footing the bill.  The food was excellent indeed.  I was pleasantly surprised by the taste of money and I really enjoyed the lunch in a quiet, almost elegant atmosphere with attentive service, multiple plate changes and in general, being engulfed in a sense of luxury and wellbeing - who wouldn't love it!

This week, we went to a simple dim sum restaurant in Scarborough, Full House at Midland and Finch, priding itself as a restaurant serving rural Chinese food, where dim sum was about a third of what it costs at Lai Wah Heen (in some instances, a fifth of the price for some ultra expensive dishes).  Obviously it didn't have the same ambiance - encased in dirty fogged up glass windows and a thread bare carpet cushioned with ancient crumbs.  We were clearly among members of the proletariat.  But we thought the food was good, the wrap for the dumplings just as perfectly done as those at Lai Wah Heen as were the ingredients for some of the dishes.  The only thing lacking was the aesthetics.

One steamed dish, enoki and king mushrooms wrapped in bean curd, tasted very similar at both places. At Lai Wah Heen, it was a special with a truffle, at $5 a piece - a piece being half of a bean curd roll, only enough for one person (see photo below).  At Full House, it's $2.15 for 3 rolls, enough for six.  Unbelievable price difference given that both tasted equally good - granted, the truffle was special.  We got good service as the staff knew us.  When we considered this intellectually, we realized that we were paying mainly for the ambiance (which included the presentation) the week before.  The debate then becomes, are we willing to pay megabucks for the ambiance, the aesthetics?   For the very occasional treat, on very special occasions AND if the person who pays can afford it - yes.  Otherwise, it would be an indulgence - and I would feel guilty...

Steamed bean curd roll of mushrooms and truffle - it is very good, one of the best I've tasted with subtle contrasts in textures and tastes, the truffle is a treat - thumbs up! 

Steamed dumplilng of lobster & shrimp in garlic butter - disappointingly bland in both taste and texture, couldn't taste the lobster at all - thumbs down!

Deep-fried tofu brick with Dungeness crabmeat and shrimp - very good - an 8

Deep-fried prawns and scallop wrapped in bacon - another 8

Wok-fried diced turnip cake with soy sauce - not as good as the regular turnip cake - a 4

Crispy fried pastry of foie gras, shrimp & minced pork - if there were real foie gras in there, it was wasted - a 5

Baked pastry filled with cured ham & shrimp - a 5

Chilled chicken wing marinated in wine sauce - outstanding!  One of the most memorable dishes in the meal!  The chicken wing was deboned, cold and firm, could use a tat more wine in the marinate but otherwise, it's perfect.  With added points for the work involved in deboning and the relatively reasonable price, I would give this a nine and a half.

Maitake mushroom & vegetables in rice roll - great texture and taste - an 8

This was an ordering mistake - I thought I had ordered braised pork belly, but it turned out to be ordinary roast pork belly.  It was very good nevertheless but nothing special although they did give us a good cut - a 6

The perfect ending - gorgeous layered pastry encasing papaya in milk custard - unbelievably good - a 10!

To be quite fair, Lai Wah Heen did offer some unusual dishes not often seen in other restaurants.  For that, it's probably worth an occasional visit.  I'll be thinking about the chicken wings and the papaya pastry for a while...

Trattoria la Casalinga - homecooking in the Oltrano

We were told that we've got to try the famous tripe in Florence so we made an effort to try it at least once in a restaurant.   Our landlord had recommended the Trattoria la Casalinga to us as a neighbourhood family-run restaurant where we could taste some real Italian homecooking.  The husband and wife team ran the restaurant with their sons and daughters working as wait staff - a true family business.  As it turned out, the restaurant was on quite a number of lists, including Rick Steves' and so we were lucky to get a seat when we got there at opening.  Even as we were eating, people started lining up inside the restaurant (there was no lobby).

We ordered the tripe - it was a  big serving.  To our surprise, the San Deigo couple at the table beside us asked if they could try some of our tripe - they've probably read the same tour book we did but didn't have the guts to order a whole plate.  Of course we didn't mind and was glad someone was sharing the cholesterol.  They offered to share their tagliatelle in exchange and I also obliged - I never refuse free food... 

Trippa alla fiorentina

The pasta with pesto was perfectly al dente and delicious

The veal too was good as was the blueberry tart dessert - basically I just went up to the bakery case and pointed - they do take out too

What a sorry hungry-looking bunch!

Two Stars

It is not often that we happen to be on vacation, within a half hour of a Michelin-rated 2 stars restaurant, have the means to both get there and pay for the meal - so we went all out to make sure we planned our last day in Tuscany around lunch at Arnolfo with Chef Gaetano Trovato.  We chose lunch instead of dinner because we didn't want to drive on country roads in the dark - it was the same menu.  All six of us were very excited by the thought of the lunch and looked forward to the event with great anticipation.  We spent our morning in the street market in the new part of town but really our heart was on the lunch.   We got lost looking for the restaurant and were relieved when we found it and was warmly welcomed by Giovanni Trovato, brother of the Chef and co-owner.

The restaurant is in the historical part of Colle Val d'Elsa, a medieval Tuscan town.  (Visit my travel blog for photos of the town.) The main dining area was on the street level of what looked like a residence that is on the hillside - even the lower level was bright and open.  We were glad we chose lunch because for once it's great to see our food in broad daylight!   The formal dining room had an understated elegance even though the chandelier and the stemware are ostentatiously Bacharrat.  The window looked out onto a sloped field (of sunflowers in the summer) - it was a picture perfect windowscape.  And so was the meal...

In the 4 hours that it took us to go through our lunch, the farmer had finished ploughing his field.   The owner told us that it was a field of sunflowers before it was ploughed.  Imagine how stunning that would have been...

The entrance portal on one of the main streets in the old town

The lower level sitting room

The book-lined dining room

There were two set menus - we ordered both and tried everything.  One is the "Territorio" - translated on the menu as "Territory & Research" - and is really the Tuscan menu.  The other one is called "Essence" which is a seafood menu.  I no longer see this on the website.

There were two amuse bouche, I've only captured one here: crispy melon, zucchini stuffed with cream cheese, pink shrimp with celeriac, tuna tartare, chicken liver pate with hazelnut and grape compote - all amazing contrasts in textures and tastes

A selection of breads, all deliciously bite-sized

I love the cover for the soup!

Tuna with sweet sour onion swimming in chickpea soup (I confess I'm not going to rave about this one)

This one, however, is superb: scallop with caviar swimming in pumpkin soup with orange compote.

Pigeon breast with goose liver, grape sauce and chestnut paste

Anchovies with fennel foam, onions under the foam, saffron with scampi

Lasagnita with lentils and lobster, clams

Ravioli blue lobster vervain with enoki mushrooms

Pasta with tiger shrimp and squid, broccoli

Pasta stuffed with sausage, parmesan cheese, cabbage and lima bean sauce

No you can't eat this, but I just want to show the place of honour for my camera - its very own stool!

John Dory with coffee sauce, Jerusalem artichoke, fois gras terrine

Rabbit with curry, wine, liver, olives and capers

Suckling pig ribs, lamb with celeriac and red currant

Beef cheek with red wine, porcini mushrooms, squash flowers and squash

Anise-flavoured figs with San Giovesia ice cream

Chocolate with chestnut (mmm...GOOD!)  and ginger ice cream

Petit fours: pistachio macaroon with almond flour, tartlet and fig compote, spice panna forte, beignet lemon custard, crispy almond chocolate with salt - hard to imagine each exquisite piece can taste so good even at the end of the four hour meal

Blueberries custard with cotaceni biscuits and spicy ice cream - a perfect ending

It was a very enjoyable meal and the best part for me was the quality and the variety and how we were able to try and savour a little of everything - which was of course the intent of tasting menus.

My special thanks to my friends H & S Gotts both for the idea of going to Arnolfo's, arranging it and best of all, remembering all the details about the lunch - without which this blog post would not have been possible!