There Are Very Few Restaurants Like Canlis Anymore

There are very few restaurants like Canlis anymore.  It is old school in every way from the Mid-20^th Century Modern architecture to the formal service to the food and drink menu.  Everything comes together beautifully to give its diners a fine dining experience from a bygone era.

Canlis, now in the hands of the third generation, was opened in 1950 as a high end seafood and charbroiled steak house with a staff of Japanese ladies in kimonos and fresh orchids flown in daily from Hawaii.  Since then, its interior has been renovated three times.  These days the inside is cedar, stone and glass, in complete harmony with the time-honored architecture.  Spacious tables with perfectly smooth and crisp white tablecloths are kept reasonably apart for privacy (the waiters steam iron the tablecloths after they lay them on the tables).  The walls of slanted windows offer a grand view of the lake below and the city skyline in the far.  ‘Updated retro’ food -- classic dishes with current cooking techniques and presentation styles -- has replaced steaks long ago.

Arufa & M arrived early for their 6:45 reservation.  They were shown to the bar, and soon informed by a maitre’d that their table would be available on time.  They were amused as there were a couple of open tables nearby.  At 6:45, they were seated at one of them.  Why the wait, they wondered; could that be a way for Canlis to manage the kitchen workflow?

Their dinner began with a trio of amuse-bouche – a croquette encasing a soft egg yolk, a cornet of salmon foam and wasabi tobiko, and a tiny tart topped with a bit of morel – followed by their first course of foie gras and steak tartare.  The foie gras was plated with blanched celery and leaves, tiny pickled red onion rings, cherry puree and clear Sauternes gel.  On top of the torchon were candied pistachios and celery powder that melted in the mouth.  The accompaniment of a thick slice of cocoa brioche toast was delicious but very crumbly, making it a mess to eat.

Foie gras

The steak tartare was made with raw local Wagyu tenderloin in the original Canlis’ recipe.  Instead of the typical meat patty, the chopped meat was formed into two ‘quenelles’ and decorated with edible flowers.  Interestingly, the meat was not mixed with egg or strong seasoning.  Instead, it had a refreshingly clean, mild flavor.

Steak tartare

The second courses were the ‘Peter Canlis Prawns’ and pan seared halibut.  Five large prawns, sautéed in dry vermouth, garlic and lime, were perfectly cooked.  They looked plain with just a pale-colored sauce drizzled over them, but their taste had made up for the lack of decoration. 

"Peter Canlis' prawns

The halibut was served with cauliflower, quinoa and taggiasca olives.

Halibut

One of the meat courses was a roasted dry aged Muscovy duck.  The whole duck (for two) was presented to the table before craving in the kitchen.  The breast was halved, sliced and plated with rillettes of leg meat, orange marmalade, green fennel puree and pearl onion brulee.  The duck was cooked well to near perfection.  There was very little fat under the crispy skin, and the medium rare meat was tender.     

The duck on a tray

The duck on a plate

Another meat course was two grilled lamb chops with braised lamb croquette, fried leeks and piquillo pepper marmalade.

Lamb chops

Both Arufa & M had Grand Marnier soufflé with orange zest and crème Anglaise for dessert.  Afterwards, their waiter brought them two kinds of macaroons with coffee, and each a parting gift of chocolate bar in a box.      

Grand Marnier souffle, creme Anglaise

Arufa and M were very satisfied with their dinner.  Their concern that the restaurant might be riding on its past glory was unfounded.  The professional and nonintrusive service at Canlis was almost impeccable.  There were a couple of minor hiccups that were quickly rectified.  They were also impressed by the valet system (there is no self parking).  The friendly valets did not hand them a claim ticket, and yet their car was waiting outside the door for them before they walked out of the door.

Canlis prides itself as a swanky restaurant.  It reminds its guests during reservation that there is a dress code, meaning no casual attires and a jacket for men.  But that is more a request than a requirement, as the restaurant recognizes that nowadays many people do not care to dress appropriately for an elegant meal.  Sadly time has changed, even for an institution like Canlis.