Disfrutar - Michelin Star in Barcelona

Disfrutar is not just a Michelin starred restaurant in Barcelona - its three chefs and owners, Mateu Casana, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch were trained at el Bulli, the legendary Michelin 3-star in Catalonia and since its opening in December, 2014, the restaurant has won acclaim with its avant-garde cuisine, getting its first Michelin Star on its first anniversary.

Unlike our dinner at LaStage, Amsterdam, we had planned this meal at Disfrutar as part of our Barcelona experience.  I came across an online writeup on their fabulous menu and so had booked our meal three months ahead when bookings were open - lunch was the only thing available at the time.  As it was located in the Eixample, we planned our day around the meal, scheduling visits to Gaudi casas before and after lunch.  It worked out really well as they are all within walking distance of the restaurant.


We were warmly welcomed when we arrived and was taken on a tour of the design award winning restaurant.  In the kitchen, smack in the middle of the restaurant, on both sides of the corridor leading to the dining room, we were introduced to the two chefs Eduoard and Oriol.  They were in the middle of showing the team what they wanted but graciously dropped everything to have their pictures taken with us.  The kitchen was packed with team members at every station.  It was quite impressive.

The two tasting menus, Classic and Festival, were the only things offered so we went with the Classic, the one with the least raw items which one of us was averse to.  We started off being seated in the front of the restaurant but was later moved to the main dining room when a table became available.  While it was nice and quiet in the front, we felt more part of the excitement in the main Mediterranean style dining room, where everyone was talking loudly and enjoying themselves (that's what "disfrutar" means - and we got to see the hardworking crew in action in the kitchen.

     

Each of the dishes were exquisitely prepared and presented - innovative with a distinct flavour and taste.  We were also given precise instructions on how to approach each to achieve the best tasting sensation.  It was a very enjoyable tasting experience - a feast for the senses.

Refreshing frozen cocktail - melt in the mouth with lingering taste of coffee and rum

"Beet that comes out of the land" (actually beetroot meringue with a light crunch on a bed of black sesame)

Frozen lychee, tapioca soaked in gin on rose petals.  We were told to put the rose petal up against our lips and suck the contents into our mouth - a sensual experience!

Salted candy walnuts with salted rice paper on the outside - amazing taste!  Mango, tonka beans soaked in whisky!

Here is an intriguing dish "Multipescadito frito" with fresh trout roe.  The "Multipescadito frito" are fried small fish placed on the wrap with sweet fresh roe - great combination and contrast in textures, the crunch around the soft roe.  We assembled our own combo. Extraordinary!

"Disfruta de la aceituna" - the "green grape" made with olive cream and butter in the crust, the "black olive" made with cocoa and olive - crushed in the mouth with orange juice inside, sucked from inside flowers.  Bread dip in oil.

Orange juice hidden inside flowers

Cold cheese biscuit finish with warm apple cider

Deep-fried egg yolk served with mushroom jelly inside egg shell - egg yolk is sensational while the mushroom jelly is the perfect balance for the palette to take away the stickiness from the yolk

Mushroom dumplings in translucent wrap 

Ceviche deconstruction - carrot and ahi pepper, white monk fish

If you don't eat raw fish, you get ramen...;-)

Macaroni carbonara - actually made with macaroni gelatin (a delightful texture!) with carbonara cheese and Parmesan on top.  The one above is the no-cheese version but you can see the macaroni better.

Tomato "polvoron" and arbequina oil caviar translated into tomato biscuit with caviar.  The interesting "liquid salad" is made with lettuce cucumber with a bubble inside made with olive oil - so much thought and work went into this!

Langoustine "al ajillo" - "al ajillo" being the little shrimps that added "legs" to the Langoustine - I would consider this the climax of the meal!  The green foam is parsley and black garlic - instilling subtle flavour on the very tasty langoustine.  My favourite dish!

Red mullet rock fish with paper thin slices of pork belly on top (delectable combination reminding me of a Chinese steamed fish with salted pork on top).  This was served with soy sauce eggplant gnocchi (made with gelatin) and yogurt sauce.

Moroccan style pigeon in a ras el hannout sauce -  a potent mix of cumin, ginger, allspice, pepper, cinnamon, coriander and cayenne

Mango sorbet sandwich - the "bread" is actually meringue!

Mano and cardamon sorbet on a cheesecake cornet

The peppers are actually chocolate with oil and salt

The grand finale - cotton of cocoa with mint flavour - you pick your own cotton and eat it off the tree!

We stayed at Disfrutar for 3 hours that afternoon and enjoyed every minute.  Bravo!

LaStage - Michelin star in Amsterdam

We lucked out when we were in Amsterdam this past September - we were able to get a last minute table at Michelin-starred LaStage, Chef Rogier Van Dam.  There is an abundance of Michelin-starred restaurants in Amsterdam but we chose this one because it's got good reviews, offered a three course option (which is all we could take in the evening), just a 20 minute walk from our BnB, fit in with our schedule and is reasonably priced.  

There were only a total of 12 courses on the menu, two in each category and guests can pick any combination to make up their dinner ranging from 3 to 8 courses.  Interestingly, the couple sitting beside us started off ordering a 5 course menu but half way through, they had to ask to "downsize".  The wait staff had a friendly discussion with them over which courses it made sense to remove and it was done without any fuss, which is a reflection of the excellent service at this restaurant with an unassuming front.  There were no "airs".

On top of the 3 courses we ordered, there were 3 amuse bouches - two before and one after!  Overall, the meal was tasty, well-prepared and definitely a restaurant I would return to next time I'm in Amsterdam.

Amuse-bouche 1 - piperada with pepper, onions and tomatoes, pork beef sausage and yummy hazelnuts coated with curry

Amuse-bouche 2 - smoked mackerel with a touch of sake!  exquisite taste!  served with "gomesco" (almonds, green pepper, green peas)

Turbot fillet - perfectly done with

with seaweed, saffran risotto, terrine of pork cheeks and langoustine sauce

Tomato bouillon

with pata negra, burrata di bufala and tomato - great combination

Never thought we would order American steak in Amsterdam but it was delicious - rare with foie gras foam

(with celeriac, artichoke in bacon, chard)

Pan fried perch - with crunchy skin, green peas creamed, with bits of smoked mackerel, hazelnuts and beet - only negative was the hollandaise sauce which was a bit salty

Amuse bouche 3 - tambouche with white chocolate and cherry preserve

Raspberry and pear

with white chocolate fudge, lemon verbena, liquerice, macadamia and raspberry sorbet

Speculaas soufflé (light and crunchy!)

with tangerine, egg nog and caramel icecream

Soy Sauce Chicken

I was utterly surprised by the popularity of the post on how to make "white-cut chicken" (June 23, 2013), a very basic but ever popular dish in Chinese cooking.  In the three years that the post was up, it has had 3,481 page views, almost ten times the average for this blog (364).  So I turned my thoughts to the other basic chicken dish - soy sauce chicken, done with very similar technique except with soy sauce.

The key to a good soy sauce chicken is obviously the soy sauce.  Get a good quality naturally fermented soy.  I use the 美味棧古法頭抽, available in larger Chinese supermarkets (in Toronto) but other brands of quality will work too. Thanks to my dear friend MC for introducing me to this brand and to the Rose Wine which truly enhanced the taste of this chicken.   MC's ratio of soy sauce was 3 tablespoons of premium soy, 3 tablespoons of dark soy (also get a quality dark soy) 3 tablespoons of Rose wine, 2-3 tablespoons of rock sugar.  This small amount of liquid is barely enough to cover half the chicken and will only work if you have a heavy cast iron pot like a medium sized Le Creuset pot that will hold the chicken snugly and retain heat even after the stove is off.  MC used a specially made heavy cooker but any heavy heat retaining pot should work.  I have gradually changed the recipe as I accumulated the sauce each time. Here's how I did it.

Ingredients: rose wine, premium soy, dark soy, rock sugar

Use the so-called "butter free-range chicken" available in Chinese groceries.  First time, use the basic recipe of 3 tablespoons each of the three liquids - soy, dark soy and rose wine plus 3 lumps of rock sugar.  Add lots of fresh ginger pieces and green onion.  Bring liquid to a boil in a heavy enamelled cast iron pot and quickly immerse chicken, breast side down.  Cover pot.

When the liquid boils again, turn off the heat. Cover pot.  Leave chicken in pot for 15 - 20 minutes (depending on size of chicken) then flip to the other side, bringing liquid to a boil again then turn off heat.

Because of the heat retention properties of the enamelled cast iron pot, the liquid would still be very hot even after the stove is turned off.  Leave chicken in pot for another 15 minutes.  At the end of the 15 minutes, bring liquid to a boil again and use a ladle to pour hot liquid over the parts of the chicken that were not fully immersed for a few more minutes.  Remove chicken from pot and let cool before applying sesame oil to the skin.  Then cut into serving pieces.  I like to put mine on the dish with the chicken pieces lined up.

Keeping the sauce for the next time -
After removing the chicken, bring the liquid to a boil again then let it cool.  I keep the liquid in the freezer and reuse it for the next soy sauce chicken.  Every time I add the 3 tablespoons of each of the liquid in the recipe and adjust the rock sugar as needed.  After cooking a couple of chickens, there should be enough liquid to cover at least half the chicken and there will no longer be a need to ladle hot liquid over the chicken, which makes the recipe even easier.  I sometimes add a couple of shelled hard-boiled eggs to the liquid with the chicken.  This will produce tasty soy sauce eggs without any extra effort.

New American Style Restaurant Experience

We tried a new restaurant Eden Hill (http://www.edenhillrestaurant.com/#about) last night. It got good reviews from Seattle Times, and excellent Google reviews – with one reviewer saying that it is somewhat fru-fru. It is true; but the food was totally worth it. We are considering their ten course texture chef menu coming up in a couple weeks.  

We opted for the blind chef 5-course tasting menu. The server asked us to trust the chef if we told him what we wouldn’t eat. I said rabbit (too cute to eat), and forgot to say lamb (also too cute) – more on that later. The pre-first-course (i.e. it didn’t count as one of the 5 courses) were two oysters in the half shell with champagne vinaigrette, decorated with edible petals from the local farmer’s market.

The first course was fresh tomatoes salad; the “cute” presentation included a fake egg-yolk. It looked like a yolk but was filled with tomato puree (or juice), enclosed in a skin just like a real egg yolk; and when I pierced it the inside ran out just like a real egg yolk. Since I forgot to turn my recorder on I don’t remember how it was done – maybe some sort of molecular gastronomy. In the picture the “yolk” is sitting under the shaved radish. And it was very tasty – excellently done. It came with a piece of bread to soak up all the juices.

Next was a shrimp and veggie dish. The baby potatoes were sauced with fermented cider vinegar and escolar pepper vinegar. The black olive-looking orbs were the height of fru-fru-ness – they were cucumbers compressed with olive oil and tossed with sweet vinegar. The base had wine chili oil and tarragon aioli, with grilled local shrimp, topped with a sorrel leaf for the acidity.

Then it was halibut cheek, with little “black” currents (which were red in color), fried peppers, grilled sun chokes, agar based brown-butter-anchovy-caramel sauce (I think something like that), and topped with pea sprouts and edible flowers. Very yummy halibut cheeks!

This was followed by lamb chops, which I hadn’t had in years since I swore off eating cute animals.  It came with halved grilled sweet cherries, roasted red onion, first-of-the-season baby button chanterelles, sprouts, and lovage sauce. And I remembered how I used to love lamb chops. (Of course Steve would order lamb when he was eating out without me present).

The palate cleanser was a half ball of peach jelly, that tasted like fresh peach.

The dessert was rose and wild berry ice cream, with saffron caramel, sesame seed crumbles, brown butter sponge cake, with an edible gold leaf. I have never had gold leaf but I don’t think it tasted like much. But the rest was great.

So quite an experience - and every dish was exceptional! And one of the best meals we’ve had for a long time – with all the ingredients locally sourced and artistically arranged. If we decide to go for the texture tasting menu I will certainly blog about it also.

Here are a couple pictures of the restaurant (non-food) related - it is a 16-seat restaurant, plus about a dozen bar seatings.

Okra tastes even better with a sauce

It took me a while to realize that okra tastes better with a liquidy sauce - but of course!  With its penne-like cavity, it's the perfect vegetable to go with a sauce that would squirt on your palette when you bit into the okra.  My favourite sauce is curry with coconut milk and tomatoes.  

Cut up your vegetables.  In this case, I used okra, egg plant, zucchini, red pepper, onion and tomatoes.  Slice the okra ~1.5 inch long at an angle.  Do the same with the other vegetables.  Add curry to hot oil in a pan and get ready for the burst of flavour from the heat.  Quickly add chopped onions.   Then add the other vegetables and a cup of broth.  After simmering for 5 minutes, add coconut milk and cook for another 5 minutes or until vegetables are soft.  Add salt or soy sauce to taste.


 


Another sauce I like is tomato sauce with herbs.  In this case, I used okra, green/red pepper, celery and onion.  Again heat oil in pan, add onions then the other vegetables except tomatoes.  Transfer to a cast iron pot.  Heat more oil in pan, add tomatoes, when it's almost soft, add half a can of tomato paste and a cup of broth.  Add herbes de provence (mix of savory, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, oregano) then pour the sauce onto the vegetables in the pot.  Simmer for 10 - 15 minutes and you've got a tasty vegetable stew with the okra soaking up the tomato sauce and the celery adding the crunch!