Friday 5 April 2013

Three Nights of José Andrés - Night 1: Dinner at Jaleo Las Vegas


Mrs. A and I visited Las Vegas recently.  Before the trip, we did some research on restaurant there and were most impressed by the tapas menu at Jaleo.  So we had dinner there on our first night. 

It took us a while to find Jaleo on Level 3 of The Cosmopolitan Hotel.  I expected an enclosed restaurant with a formal entry, but it turned out to be a large informal place with no wall along its front.  On one side were tall bar tables surrounded by the bar, a huge fire pit, and an open kitchen for cold dishes.  The kitchen for hot food was hidden in the back.  On the other side were four booths adjacent to the open kitchen, and a large number of tables.  We sat at one of the booths; leg room was a bit tight, otherwise very comfortable.  We had an excellent view watching the chefs preparing cured meat dishes and salads.   

Jaleo was casual and lively.  Its décor was playful.  With pop music playing in the background, diners talking inside the restaurant, noises coming from the outside, and sound bouncing from all its hard surfaces, the noise level surprisingly did not bother us at all.  

Jaleo Las Vegas front
Jaleo Las Vegas bar area
Jaleo Las Vegas dining area

Being unfamiliar with Spanish wine, I ordered a bottle of cava – the Spanish sparkling wine.  We took our waitress’ recommendation for a Raventós i Blanc 'de Nit' Rose 2009.  It went well with our food.

We started with the seleccion de jamones - Spanish ham sampling plate - with jamon Serrano, jamon Iberico (aged 1 year), jamon Iberico de Bellota (aged 3 years), all from the producer Fremin, and pan de cristal con tomate fresco, the crispy toasted bread brushed with fresh tomato for eating jamon with.  I was surprised that Jaleo used a slicer instead of slicing the ham the traditional way by hand.  The Serrano ham was the leanest, and not as flavorful as the Iberico ham.  Mrs. A liked the jamon Iberico the best, and I preferred the jamon Iberico de Bellota, which was deeper in color as well as in flavor.  The bread was a little soggy though the garlic tomato sauce was tasty. 

From the left: jamon Serrano, jamon Iberico, jamon Iberico de Bellota, pan de cristal con tomate fresc

While I was busy eating ham and tasting the cava, the huevo frito con caviar (fried egg with caviar) arrived.  It was a beautiful ball of fried egg sitting on onion confit and topped with a heap of caviar.  The food runner immediately cut up the egg into tiny little pieces and mixed vigorously the runny yolk, soft egg whites and everything else together.  That was a good way to enjoy the dish, though I would rather do the cutting and mixing myself.  Runny egg yolk with a glob of caviar was velvety salty heaven.

Arrived next was calamares en su tinta con alcachofas y cebollitas - seared fresh squids with squid ink sauce, artichokes and pearl onions.  The small squids looked like Japanese hotaru ika and they were tasty.  The salty squid ink enhanced their flavor.  We were told later by the chef that all the guts were left inside the bodies of the squids, which is also the way Japanese eat hotaru ika.  Delicious!!

Seared fresh squids with squid ink sauce, artichokes and pearl onions
The canelones traditionales de cerdo y higado de pato con salsa béchamel (pork and foie gras canelones with béchamel sauce) was not what I expected.  I thought it would be like the Italian pasta tubes.  The version at Jaleo was moist shredded pork in a gratin dish under a sheet of small pasta squares, covered with béchamel sauce, sprinkled with cheese and browned in the oven, in the tradition of Catalan.  The smoothness and juiciness of the pork indicated the presence of some foie gras.  It was a very nice dish. 

Pork and foie gras canelones with béchamel sauce
 My dessert was ‘Gin y Tonic’, a gin and tonic sorbet with fizzy tonic ‘espuma’, lemon and aromatics.  I gather that Chef José Andrés likes gin and tonic as it shows up here and there on his menus at Jaleo and his other restaurants.  I liked gin and tonic myself too.  Mrs. A was not impressed with the ‘classic Spanish coffee’.

Gin and tonic sorbet             
After dinner, Chef Carlos Cruz Santos came out from the kitchen to greet us.  He was very friendly and spent time explaining some of the dishes to us.  He said we missed Chef José Andrés by a week; he was there making paella and having great fun with the kitchen.  We told him that we enjoyed our dinner very much.   As there were many items on the menu we wanted to try, we would be returning the following evening.  We also mentioned that our third dinner at Vegas would be at é by José Andrés, a micro-restaurant hidden inside Jaleo.  Thus three nights of José Andrés.

Chef Carlos Cruz Santos



                                                                                               





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