I have never been to Chicago. I
would like to go there, if not for its architecture, at least for its good restaurants.
I had three on my mind – Charlie Trotter’s (new American cuisine), Rick
Bayless’ Frontera Grill (Mexican) and Alinea (“molecular gastronomy”).
But it is too late to eat at Charlie Trotter’s. It will close after celebrating its 25th
anniversary at the end of August of 2012.
Mr. Trotter will be going back to school to pursue a master degree in philosophy. He said he would open another restaurant
after school. We will see.
Senor Rick Bayless lived in Mexico to learn Mexican
cooking. In recent years, he follows the path of many celebrity chefs to run an empire of restaurants. He also appears on television often. Can I expect him to be at the helm of his kitchen? I am not sure.
Alinea has been a success since its opening – Michelin-starred, World’s
Top 50, etc. The owner-chef, Grant Achatz,
has survived cancer and stays on top of everything. Reviews are always raving. The pictures in his coffee table cookbook and
on the restaurant website are artistic and inviting (an example is placed at the end of this post). But, being a traditional
eater, I am no longer sure about eating there after I realize that Alinea
is as much art and theater as food and dining there is “an experience”. That's just me. Watch the
video “Lamb 86”, released by Alinea in May this year, and see for yourself. The video has been circulated on the
internet, so you may have seen it
already. If you have not, here is a link
http://alineaphile.com/2012/05/garnish-key-for-alinea-restaurants-lamb-86-recipe/. “Lamb 86” is
a course of sous-vide lamb three
ways, served with a rich jus and an accompaniment of 60 condiments on a plexiglass tray. Altogether there are 86 ingredients, thus the
name. The diners choose
the condiments from the tray for the lamb. The
dish has a great visual impact. It also poses a challenge. What condiments would one choose? What would one’s dinner companions choose? Has one made the “right” choices? I suppose there are no right choices; I don’t
think the chef would include anything that ruins the course. "Lamb 86" is fun. But, if I am eating that dish, my three small
pieces of meat would be long gone by the time I get to the 10th
condiment. I would not know what to do with the untouched condiments.
May be I should just go to Chicago for its architecture. (I am only kidding. Chicago is a good food city. There is no lack of wonderful restaurants. Alinea should be experienced. An eating
trip is warranted.)
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| Candycap (Alinea) |
