Bresse Hen at Le Bristol

My heart pounded with excitement when a waiter walked toward our table carrying in his hands a balloon in a copper pan.  But my excitement was dashed quickly.  He walked past us to the two men at the table next to ours.  They had ordered the same meat course – a young Bresse hen cooked in a pig’s bladder. 

Poularde de Bresse cuite en vessie (Le Bristol)

We had been in the restaurant for an hour and half and had thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  Each of us had a glass from the Champagne cart for aperitif, and ate through two amuse-bouches and an entrée.  The wine (a 2000 Corton Charlemagne from Antonin Guyon) and the incredibly tasty bread and butter would sustain us while we waited for our hen.    

First amuse-bouche – foie gras custard with green herb gelee (right),

white fish in foam (center), oyster cucumber gelatin ball (left)

Second amuse-bouche – seafood mousse

Monsieur A’s entrée: Encornet et caviar imperial (stuffed squid with caviar)

Madame A’s entrée: Noix de coquilles (scallops)

Our waiter presented the copper pan to us before proceeding with the tableside service.  He cut open the balloon of a pig’s bladder and extracted from it a whole young Bresse hen.  He carved the bird and served the skinless half breasts with crayfish, black truffle, chanterelle, green asparagus and a cream sauce of vin jaune, foie gras and hen liver.  The tender and flavourful breast meat was enhanced by the traditional rich sauce.

Carving the Bresse hen tableside

Poularde de Bresse, supreme au vin jaune, royale d’abats,

ecrevisses, girolle, asperges vertes et truffe noire

The rest of the hen was taken back to the kitchen for the second part of the dish – a delicious bouillon de poule enriched with foie gras and truffle, and adorned with juliennes of thigh meat.  It was velvety with an intense aroma and flavor.  Given its richness, the small portion size was perfect.   

We were too full for the glorious cheese cart.  Nevertheless Madame A ordered a Campari and grapefruit sorbet.  The kitchen sent out a complimentary sorbet for me so that Madame did not have to eat alone.  We ended the lunch with a soothing tisane and ignored the petits fours that came with the tea service.

Dessert: Pamplemousse et Campari en sorbet (Campari and grapefruit sorbet)

Our three-course lunch lasted over three and half hours.  It was a wonderful meal.   We loved every minute of it, having a great time with the excellent food and the flawless professional service.  The luxurious winter dinner room with 18^th century wood panels, mirrors, tapestries, paintings and Baccarat chandeliers was beautiful.  It was also a good place for people watching but not eavesdropping as the tables were set far apart. 

The Winter Dining Room (Le Bristol)

In summer, the restaurant moves to another dining room that overlooks the largest hotel garden in Paris.  As far as I know, it is the only Parisian restaurant that changes its venue with seasons.  

Restaurant: Hotel Le Bristol, Paris

Chef: Eric Frechon